KISS Keep It Simple Stupid! HEAT CONTROLLER
Riding in Nevada and California’s Sierras really makes one appreciate the warming qualities of electric clothing. Even during the summer there are opportunities for some major chilling to those of us that chose the wind/rain in the face, nose running rides, on two (or three) wheels. There are some great suppliers of electric clothing and accessories. Rather then using what manufacturers had to offer, we made our own electric vests because we liked the custom fit as well as the use of the tough and thinner Teflon coated 30 gauge wire. ,. After making the vests we needed a way to control the heat. Plugging/unplugging the connector was one option. Unfortunately the scenario usually became; its raining/snowing, don’t want to stop now, freeze, until one can find a less curvy section of road to stop, or… just a little more sweat, until the road gets straight enough to unplug, unless the sun goes behind the cloud. A better solution to the plug/unplug scene could be an on/off switch. Finding one that is waterproof (yes, we can get wet here in NV!) limits switch options. Even better would be the option of controlling the temperature of the “body heater”. There are some well made commercially manufactured mechanical and electronic heat controllers as well as plans for homemade “fuzzy logic” controllers. Not being one with basic logic skills, let alone “fuzzy” ones (although, I guess I have been accused more often of my logic being fuzzy then of having any logic.) tackling the making of complicated controller didn’t seem to fit the basic idea of keeping it simple. Keeping it simple was the only option for stupid me. How about a controller that set the temperature at bake, simmer or off. Notice the reference to cooking? I like to eat! Ha, easy to understand eh? So on to the Internet and found a simple, full/off/half power recipe for a controller. Built the controller using a 4X2X2 inch, waterproof plastic box with a three way automotive switch and a turn signal relay. Worked great! Had full grilling power at one setting, off, and the mechanical relay clicked on and off effectively cutting the power to the vest in half. As an added benefit there was no additional current draw or loss such as with a resistor. As far as reliability of the turn signal relay… does one need to be reminded of the motor home driver that can drive coast to coast with the left turn signal on? After four years and nearly 100K miles, like a Timex, the controller keeps on ticking. The downside of the controller was the relatively large size of the unit. Even though it was large I was still successful in misplacing one. This lose was an incentive to make another but the size was a challenge. This prompted a redesign of the unit. Now the unit is less then 4 inches tall and slightly over 1 inch in diameter and definitely 100% waterproof.
Construction of the KISS (hey, got to keep in character. Its easier to spell Kiss then controller!) is relatively simple. If one can’t solder then crimp terminals can be used. The Kiss illustrated is soldered. Everything needed, materials and tools are included in the picture, except for something in which to measure and mix the resin, vinyl electrical tape to seal gaps until the resin cures and shrink wrap to “tidy up” the wire.
MATERIAL LIST
# 1. 35 mm film canister. The slick plastic, flexible kind will release from the cured resin.
# 2. Two prong flasher, turn signal replacement unit. Mechanical type not the electronic one
# 3. Crimp connectors (if you are not soldering) 6 female spade and 1 to splice.
# 4. 1 to 4 foot DC polarized cable. You may want to size it for your application.
# 5. ON-OFF-ON 10 amp. Toggle switch. (single pole double throw) needs to fit in canister and # 6
# 6. Rubber cap, to fit toggle switch.
# 7. Catalyst for polyester resin.
# 8. Liquid plastic casting resin.
# 9. Solder gun/iron
# 10. Solder
# 11. Wire cutter/crimper
Many of the items can be found at auto parts stores and RV/trailer supply. Radio Shack has the rubber caps for the toggle switch, two in a box, one black and the other orange, your pick. The resin and catalyst were found at Ben Franklins Craft and other arts/crafts stores. You can get fancy and add a tint to the resin to match your ride/gear. (or get colorful wires!)
Ok! We be ready to do the Kiss deed! There are a few differences between soldering and using crimp terminals. The wiring is the same no matter which method one uses. The illustration shows the wiring and gives an idea how short the connections between the switch and flasher need to be. There is always some wiggle room but while doing the final assembly, before sealing the work in resin, one should make sure there are no uninsulated wires making contact that would create a short.
Wires are solder connected in this picture. This particular switch had screw connections, an option one could use instead of soldering.
Connections are;
Red wire from the plug on one end to # 2 terminal on switch
#4 terminal on flasher to #3 terminal on switch
#5 terminal on flasher and #1 terminal on switch are connected with a red wire going to the other plug
Note: the black wire that appears to connect between 4 and 5 makes no contact with the terminals on the flasher and is actually joined to itself.
If you are going to mark which side of the switch is going to be the “bake” side (full on), remember the top of the switch points in the opposite direction of how it appears to be wired. In this case the top of the switch, (which is now off or open), would point towards the #3 which would close the connection on #1. Pointing towards #3 would be bake and pointing towards #1 would be half-baked.
Once all the wires are soldered or crimped its best to do a test to make sure the unit is functioning. In keeping with the KISS philosophy, simply plugging in the unit to the bike and a vest seems to work well. It will take some care to make sure one doesn’t complete a circuit by placing a finger across a couple of terminals or by looking for sparks between the controller and the bike metal parts should they come in contact. At the low setting one should be able to hear the controller cycle on and off. Much like the sound that some drivers ignore as they travel the highways with the turn signal on. Checking on the “bake” side of the controller requires feeling the vest warm up. If a voltmeter is used, the “simmer” side of the controller will register the same amount of voltage as the “bake” side with no cycling of the flasher. Once the controller checkout, the final assembly and sealing can be done.
Final assembly and sealing of the controller requires patience while waiting for the resin to cure. Also at this time is where the soldering vs. crimp connections directions deviate and, the answer to why a 35 mm film canister is used.
If using crimp terminal connections; take the flasher and hold it with its prongs against the bottom of the canister. Mark the approximate locations of the terminals on the bottom of the canister and cut out slots for the prongs to go through. Need not be too neat, because some room will be needed to adjust the flasher so it sits relatively centered when plugged into the bottom of the canister. Another option is to just cut a big hole in the bottom of the canister that will allow the flasher prongs to go through. Once the flasher prongs are inserted through the bottom of the canister, take vinyl electrical tape and tape the flasher to the canister. Make sure the flasher body is flush with the bottom of the canister and the gap is well sealed. It can be frustrating to see the resin escape from the connection between flasher and canister. Once taped, the wiring can be installed. Put on the rubber cap NOW! It, and marking the full power side of the controller should be done before proceeding or it may be forgotten until the resin is poured and gets messy. Red or some other colored marker inked on the “full on” side of the switch plate is optional but can be helpful for those of us suffering from old heimers disease. The crimp connector joining the black wire may need to be bent into a “V” shape in order to prevent it from forcing the wire against the sides of the canister. The two wires coming from the switch should be connected to the flasher. If no mini fingers are available, needle nose pliers work well in pushing the terminals onto the flasher prongs. The wires leaving the canister can be shaped to exit the canister on either side of the switch. A rubber band seems to work well in securing the wires so they are bundled. Recheck the sealing tape between the flasher and the film canister, it sometimes gets loose while connecting the wires to the flasher. Check to make sure the wires in the controller are not going to short against each other. Any wires resting against the side of the canister are not going to be protected by the resin. Wait! Don’t pour the resin until the directions for the controller with the soldered connections is given.
Controller with soldered connections; Cut the bottom off the film canister so there is no lip. There will be a lip on the top of the canister where the film canisters cap went. Turn the canister upside down and thread the wires and controller through it so the lip would be facing the flasher. The lip of the canister and the lip of the flasher should meet. Tape with vinyl electrical tape where the two lips meet (hmm… this is sounding a little strange however it does seem to make “kiss” sense.) Make sure there is a good seal between the two lips (hmm… Again!) If you haven’t put on the rubber cap and marked where the “full on” is, do it NOW. Check with the terminal connections directions, listed above, to find out why. Refer to the same directions for routing the wires.
The picture shows the removal of the canister from the controller after the resin has cured. Notice the lip of the canister faces the direction of the flasher. If you used the crimp terminal directions pretend this picture is not here, your canister goes the other way. If all the wires are connected, not shorting out against each other, routed well and not touching the sides of the canister, we be ready to commit, smell resin and pour!
Unless you plan on taking a trip without leaving the ground, make sure you have good ventilation when you do the resin preparation and pouring. Refer to the directions on the can of resin and catalyst. I found a cheap clear plastic, measuring cup helpful to mix and pour with. That cup has done more pours then I want to count,. Or maybe it’s the resin fumes and I really can’t count!? For each canister I plan for at least 1 ½ ounces or more of resin. If you get a leak in the vinyl tape the extra is a nice cushion. I try to position the switch low enough in the canister (mold) so a portion of the rubber cap base will be sealed by the resin. Stabilizing the switch and wires is done with a patient dog trained to hold a point, however if the dog is not available a third hand comes in handy. (Sorry about that…or maybe not! Must be the fumes!) Radio Shack and other electronic or craft places have “third hand” or handy holders. There are other ways to secure the wires/switch in the mold but the handy holder work for me.
Since there are places for voids, due to crossing wires, and terminals/prongs, slow pouring seems to allow the resin to fill the areas better. If everything is well sealed the pour goes well, if not, its “interesting”.
Now wait…….. until the resin “sets up” I have never been able to figure out the right amount of time until the resin cures and usually end up poking at it a few times until it no longer feels tacky. After the resin is cured the tape can be removed, if the unit was soldered and the canister had been slipped over the whole assembly then the canister can be slipped off. It may take a few squeezes along the sides of the canister to make the sides release. If one is not patient and/or has used crimp terminals, a sharp blade like an exacto knife will be able to slice down the side and along the bottom of the film canister to expose the completed sealed unit. ( A deep cut will make a deep gouge on the unit if one is not careful.) Or.. keep the canister cover on for a elegant basic black ensemble to match your bike. Now go ride.
Couple of Hints;
Check to see what the electrical draw is for your electrical garments. You need to make sure the turn signal unit can support the electrical load. Each of our vests draws about 4 amps, the 12-volt turn signal we used is rated at 5 amps. An electronic unit might be used but I have not tried one, so don’t know.
Shrink-wrapping the wires before making any connections helped in keeping the wires neater and easier to manage and provided better reference for cutting and equalizing the ends.
Permanent felt tip marker does a good job of marking the side of the switch that will be the hot side. The ink may “bleed” a small amount in the resin but not enough to create much of a problem.
It is not recommended to go into any “secure” places with the controller. Security guards have no sense of humor regarding “unknown wired/switch devices” Ditto to sending it through the mail.
This worked well for us, however; you are working with ‘lectricity which can do unpleasant things should you not construct with care. Should you build this you do so at your own risk. (there ! Hope that covers the liability crowd!)
Questions or comments?
wingse00-abs05@yahoo.com Tim O’Keefe, PO Box 6525 Reno, NV 89513